Saturday, October 27, 2012

First Female V14

With October sending season in full force how about the first female V14 for your weekly Psyche? Congrats to Tomoko Ogawa for completely her three-year project, Catharsis, at Shiobara, Japan, and taking the sport to another level.

If this looks familiar it's because the problem was also featured in this Daniel Woods video last spring. With over 20 moves it's almost more of a route than a boulder problem. No matter, it's one of the coolest looking boulders I've seen.

Uk Climbing posted a short interview with Ogawa on how she trained for Catharsis, which you can read by clicking this excerpt. These perfect fall conditions won't last forever. Get out there!

I thought I need more finger strength and reach. I did "finger pull ups" for a long time that I had seen Daniel Woods do in a DVD. It is like hanging on a campus board with open hand and close it to crimp and open and close over and over while you are hanging.

And I started to straighten up my body. Actually I was hunched. I thought because of my backside muscles got too big since I started climbing, I wanted keep my chest and body open to extending my reach. But it took a year to get better...


Reed said...

I love the "warm up your frozen fingers on your neck" technique. Haven't seen that one before.

She makes those holds look quite big. I'm sure they're not.

Steve Edwards said...

I wonder if it works. Doesn't seem as though it would do anything. Getting cold here so I'll be trying it.

The problem's description is something like big reaches between small holds so I'm sure they're terrible. Also rather steep. And Daniel Woods made it look sharp, too. Still, looks like a fantastic problem.

Bouldershoulders said...

Fantastic! Both the raw video and the link to the interview.