12 Days of Psyche: 1500 Pull-ups

Fuckin’ Stevie Haston, man! Psyche doesn’t always require video. Reading Stevie’s blog is like one long strange Psyche trip. This guy is, what, 55 years old? He’s been bolting all day (harder than climbing) and he comes home and rattles off 1500 pull-ups. It’s just so.. SO… rad. Then he posts this:

A perfect bolted a brilliant route, radiant sunset. . Got home and did 1500 pull ups on the board..... Still haven't mastered the small sloper with one hand, anyway there is always tomorrow...

So, yeah, in the midst of all this he’s trying to hang a hold at his power limit. I don’t care if none of this sounds sensible because this guy’s older than me, stronger than me, and out training me. He wins.

Today I did a lot, me happy if I can keep it up for a couple of months I will improve. Simple Innit?
- Stevie un-bored Haston

Great Advice For Climbers, Or Anyone, Really

“Stevie Haston is rad,” said Elijah on a recent post that linked to his blog. I concur. And while I’ve linked to things he’s written quite a few times I’ve never had a post of his to completely focus on. Today's the day, as he’s offered some top-notch advice for climbers that transcends the sport into great advice for everyone.

So who is this guy and why should you pay attention to him? Because he's in his mid 50s who still climbs harder than 99% of the world. He also does other assorted adventures that most mortals wouldn’t consider, noted by the casual reference to an injury he picked up during a 200-mile run. His blog offers insight into all sorts of things, but mainly training. I can't recall ever spending any time on it where I didn't learn something about something. Plus he’s funny, which for me is reason enough alone to have his blog pegged atop my reading list.

This post, called Making Monsters, is some advice on how not to get injured that includes an exercise I’ve never done (part of it anyway), which is saying something. Click on the excerpt below to read the article and enjoy Haston’s unique style of prose:

Making monsters is what its about, but in the end monsters devour themselves, or just rip themselves apart. I did it just over a year ago running in a 200 mile run, half way I slightly tore a calf, but of course I continued for a while and made it much worse. In climbing you don't have the luxury of even time to consider, it happens very quick. Above is standing or upright row, its very good for shoulders, you really need to watch your self in a mirror to watch for imbalances! My shoulders are good again, because I sorted them out.