The Straight Dope

Monday, December 26, 2011

Hard Grit



Happy Boxing Day! Since boxing’s about grit here’s some tip top gritstone action from England, featuring Neil Mawson’s infamous deck off of Meshuga in 2005. UK Climbing’s Jack Geldard caught up with Mawson to see how the fall has affected his life since. Click the excerpt to read the entire interview.

The next few years I did very little trad climbing, onsighting or headpointing, and concentrated on pushing my sport climbing level. I tried over those years between 2006 and 2010 to headpoint some trad routes but I found I could never commit to the lead even though I'd climbed them cleanly on top rope. I'm sure that my lack of confidence to get on lead was due to my fall off Meshuga. Before then I'd never had any problem committing to the lead after top roping the route clean, but then that changed and it was really frustrating.
Posted by Steve Edwards at 9:48 AM
Labels: climbing, training for climbing, video

No comments:

Post a Comment

Newer Post Older Post Home
Subscribe to: Post Comments (Atom)

Search This Blog

Scribings of Yore

  • ►  2013 (19)
    • ►  April (3)
    • ►  March (3)
    • ►  February (10)
    • ►  January (3)
  • ►  2012 (133)
    • ►  December (16)
    • ►  November (11)
    • ►  October (11)
    • ►  September (12)
    • ►  August (12)
    • ►  July (14)
    • ►  June (13)
    • ►  May (11)
    • ►  April (9)
    • ►  March (8)
    • ►  February (9)
    • ►  January (7)
  • ▼  2011 (125)
    • ▼  December (14)
      • Recaping The "Year of Fitness"
      • 2011: Training by numbers
      • Hard Grit
      • No Ski Lift. No Ski Hill. No Problem.
      • Importance Of Iron Fist
      • Capacity For Strength, Technoviking, & The Predato...
      • P90X2 For Outdoor Sports V: An Off-Season Schedule
      • P90X2 For Outdoor Sports IV: Goals & Reality
      • P90X2: How To Design A Sport-Specific Training Pro...
      • P90X2: Practice Week
      • P90X2 For Outdoor Athletes
      • First American Female To...
      • The Trouble With Trouble
      • Questions, Answers, and Song
    • ►  November (9)
    • ►  October (11)
    • ►  September (5)
    • ►  August (15)
    • ►  July (6)
    • ►  June (13)
    • ►  May (9)
    • ►  April (12)
    • ►  March (10)
    • ►  February (11)
    • ►  January (10)
  • ►  2010 (133)
    • ►  December (6)
    • ►  November (10)
    • ►  October (12)
    • ►  September (14)
    • ►  August (10)
    • ►  July (16)
    • ►  June (15)
    • ►  May (10)
    • ►  April (6)
    • ►  March (13)
    • ►  February (12)
    • ►  January (9)
  • ►  2009 (115)
    • ►  December (11)
    • ►  November (7)
    • ►  October (9)
    • ►  September (9)
    • ►  August (9)
    • ►  July (11)
    • ►  June (12)
    • ►  May (14)
    • ►  April (8)
    • ►  March (9)
    • ►  February (6)
    • ►  January (10)
  • ►  2008 (117)
    • ►  December (14)
    • ►  November (7)
    • ►  October (10)
    • ►  September (9)
    • ►  August (13)
    • ►  July (11)
    • ►  June (15)
    • ►  May (10)
    • ►  April (12)
    • ►  March (7)
    • ►  February (6)
    • ►  January (3)
  • ►  2007 (98)
    • ►  December (4)
    • ►  November (10)
    • ►  October (5)
    • ►  September (7)
    • ►  August (14)
    • ►  July (11)
    • ►  June (7)
    • ►  May (11)
    • ►  April (6)
    • ►  March (4)
    • ►  February (12)
    • ►  January (7)
  • ►  2006 (74)
    • ►  December (6)
    • ►  November (10)
    • ►  October (10)
    • ►  September (5)
    • ►  August (3)
    • ►  July (19)
    • ►  June (2)
    • ►  May (3)
    • ►  April (5)
    • ►  March (8)
    • ►  February (1)
    • ►  January (2)

Labels

  • 10/10/10 (1)
  • 11/11/11 challenge (5)
  • 12/12/12 (1)
  • 2010training (1)
  • 24hrs of Moab (1)
  • 25hrs of Frog Hollow (2)
  • 8/8/08 (1)
  • 9/9/09 (1)
  • 90 Day Challenge (19)
  • ABC Training (3)
  • adaptation (1)
  • age (7)
  • Andorra (1)
  • asylum (27)
  • awesomeness (1)
  • BAM Doggie Du (1)
  • barefoot (6)
  • Beachbody (129)
  • beer (5)
  • Belgium (2)
  • big food (1)
  • bike reviews (2)
  • biking (1)
  • birthday challenge (21)
  • Body Beast (2)
  • booze (1)
  • brain (1)
  • Butte 100 (1)
  • caballo blanco (6)
  • caffeine (2)
  • calorie restriction (1)
  • capacity for strength (2)
  • challenges (100)
  • chat (3)
  • China (8)
  • cleansing (5)
  • climbing (122)
  • coffee (10)
  • Copper Canyon Ultra (3)
  • cortisol (1)
  • crazy training (1)
  • creatine (1)
  • crossfit (8)
  • customizing P90X (1)
  • cycling (135)
  • dairy (2)
  • designing training programs (8)
  • Dogma (1)
  • doping (28)
  • drugs (11)
  • E100 (1)
  • education tools (2)
  • efficiency (5)
  • England (1)
  • express diets (1)
  • fast food (3)
  • fast twitch (3)
  • fasting (2)
  • fat burning (1)
  • feats of strength (1)
  • first ascents (4)
  • fitness (6)
  • fitness nerd (1)
  • Fitness Retreat (1)
  • flexibility (1)
  • footwear (1)
  • forearm training (1)
  • forearms (1)
  • France (5)
  • freediving (1)
  • GMO (6)
  • great rides (12)
  • hardest endurance events (1)
  • health news (188)
  • history of santa barbara climbing (2)
  • idiocracy (2)
  • immune system (5)
  • india (8)
  • injury (27)
  • insanity (22)
  • instability (15)
  • integration training (2)
  • Italy (1)
  • jack lalanne (7)
  • jazz the glass (1)
  • juicing (1)
  • junk food (2)
  • kayaking (1)
  • kids and nutrition (3)
  • kinetic chain training (16)
  • lab rat (2)
  • lifestyle (1)
  • local eating (2)
  • maintenance training (1)
  • meat industry (1)
  • mental training (1)
  • Moab (1)
  • Moab Century (1)
  • motivation (9)
  • mountain biking (8)
  • moustache (3)
  • Mr Daikeler Goes to Washington (1)
  • Mt Wilson (1)
  • muscular endurance (3)
  • National Championships (3)
  • nepal (6)
  • nutrient timing (1)
  • nutrion (2)
  • nutrition (145)
  • Nutrition 911 (3)
  • obesity (8)
  • olympics (10)
  • One on One (11)
  • overtraining (2)
  • p3 (19)
  • P90X (137)
  • P90X + (8)
  • P90x mc2 (30)
  • P90X2 (72)
  • p90X2 for outdoor sports (21)
  • p90x2 prep (7)
  • Paris-Roubaix (4)
  • people behaving badly (8)
  • performance eating (2)
  • periodizational training (3)
  • personal (157)
  • plantar fasciitis (2)
  • Post-activation Potentiation (26)
  • prefab (1)
  • prehab (4)
  • profile (3)
  • psyche (148)
  • pull-ups (1)
  • Q and A (1)
  • races (7)
  • rad training stuff (2)
  • Rainbow Wall (1)
  • rant (36)
  • recovery (10)
  • rehab (4)
  • reviews (9)
  • Richness of it All (1)
  • running (38)
  • salt (4)
  • Sedona Big Friggin' Loop (1)
  • Sedona's Big Friggin' Loop (1)
  • Shakeology (18)
  • skiing (3)
  • sleep (4)
  • soda (12)
  • Spain (2)
  • speed (3)
  • Speedgoat 50 (1)
  • Squawstruck. (1)
  • sugar (3)
  • summer 2011 training (10)
  • supplements (9)
  • surfing (1)
  • tapering (1)
  • tea (3)
  • tour de france (40)
  • Tour of Flanders (1)
  • training (247)
  • training for climbing (90)
  • training for cycling (40)
  • training for multi-sports (47)
  • training for running (2)
  • training programs (21)
  • trainining (1)
  • travel (31)
  • trends/fads/cliches (25)
  • tribute (9)
  • Tuco (1)
  • Turbo Fire (9)
  • turkey (1)
  • usda (7)
  • utah (3)
  • vegan (5)
  • veggie diet (10)
  • video (147)
  • video chat (8)
  • vitamin D (3)
  • Wall Rats (1)
  • water (2)
  • weight loss (2)
  • weird diets (18)
  • white rim in a day (1)
  • Winter 2011 training (16)
  • winter2010training (10)
  • Workout from Hell (29)
  • workouts (8)
  • World Duathlon Championships (1)
  • yak attack (9)
  • yearly recap (10)
  • yoga (6)
  • zig zag dieting (3)

Friends, Reference, & Assorted Oddities

  • Applied Sports Science Blog
  • BDC - it ain't birthday pretty hard...
  • Beachbody - get fit
  • Beachbody Article Archive
  • Bob's super asada
  • Carl's world of a fitness CEO
  • Chalene: world's fittest mom
  • Cycling Chic: roll with style
  • Denis Faye: my best fiend
  • Dolomiti Adventure
  • DPM: work less, climb more
  • Eat Fresh!
  • Elijah is Crankenstein
  • Fitness Nerd: or is it fitness wiseguy?
  • Micah's Educated Vegetable
  • More Romney than Edwards
  • My article archive
  • Peak Performance Project (P3)
  • Rebecca: Queen of Pain
  • Reed hunts the Jaguar Shark
  • Ritte Racing
  • Speed Climb
  • Steve's Mailbag Archives
  • TBB Message Boards--train smart
  • The Climbing Lab
  • Tony H: Do your best, forget the rest
  • Wall Rats
  • Will's Gravsports

Popular Posts

  • The Truth
    This week’s psyche is a no brainer: it’s Jack LaLanne’s 96th birthday. Yeah, yeah, the guy from the juicer commercials, as all you pop-cult...
  • Previewing P90X2
    Last weekend Tony Horton, Steve Holmsen, and I put the final touches on the mc2 workouts . Today we begin our cast rehearsals, where we’ll...
  • 3 Simple Steps To Weight Loss In 3 Weeks
    We love to make dieting complicated but the reality is the 95% of the obesity epidemic can be blamed on one thing: we eat a lot of junk. Yo...
  • Is Beer Really Better Than Water For Hydration?
    Men worldwide were ubiquitously in high spirits (ridiculous pun intended) over a Spanish study that showed that post exercise beer was be...
  • Is 30 Minutes of Exercise Better Than An Hour?
    An article claiming less is more when it comes to weight loss and exercise hit the wires today. And while it’s decent if you read the en...
  • A Realistic Training Template For a Busy World
    I can’t believe that it’s only four weeks until I leave for Europe. The final phase of my training program has snuck up on me like a ninja...
  • The Breakfast Myth
    That breakfast is the most important meal of the day is a common saying in the western world. Over at the Fitness Nerd , Denis deconstruc...
  • SAD to MAD: The Non-Diet Diet
    As many of you know I’m a dietary lab rat. I’ve tested almost every diet known to man in the name of research but, mainly, my go-to plan...
  • The Curious Case of McRib & Men’s Health
    “As much as I love ribs there is one part that I hate: the ribs,” jokes Stephen Colbert while lambasting one of the more curious eating phe...
  • When You’re Not Feeling It, Press On…
    One of the frustrating facts of training is that getting fitter is not a linear projection. At some point you’ll have a bad patch. If yo...

Followers

Who?

My photo
Steve Edwards
I'm a human lab rat and head of fitness and nutrition development at Beachbody. If our products don't work you can blame me. When I'm not testing training and nutritional theories on myself I'm studying, writing, climbing, riding, running, racing, exploring, or playing with my wife and the dogs.
View my complete profile

Subscribe To Steve's Blog

Posts
Atom
Posts
Comments
Atom
Comments
Copywrite Steve Edwards 2012. Picture Window theme. Powered by Blogger.